In the ever-evolving world of horology, it's fascinating to witness the evolution and culmination of iconic timepieces. The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, a collaboration between British brands, has left an indelible mark on the industry, and its final chapter, the 'Ultimus', promises to be a masterpiece. Personally, I find it intriguing how a brand can create such a unique identity in such a short span, and now, with this limited edition, Fears is bidding farewell to a beloved model.
The Art of Collaboration
Fears, in collaboration with Andrew Morgan, has crafted a watch that blends the past and present. The 'Ultimus' draws inspiration from the 1920s Art Deco era, a cornerstone of Fears' design philosophy, but adds a modern twist. The case, a familiar 40.5mm cushion, houses a dial that is a true fusion of eras. The monochromatic display and gradient hour disk pay homage to early 20th-century pocket watches and wristwatches, respectively. What makes this particularly fascinating is the contrast between the vintage-inspired design and the modern construction, utilizing sapphire crystals and lumed ceramic.
A Dial Like No Other
The dial is where the 'Ultimus' truly shines. It's a three-dimensional masterpiece, with a textured luminous ceramic surface and a semi-transparent minute track. The jumping hour display at 12 o'clock, magnified through a unique window, is a first for the Brunswick collection. This feature, in my opinion, elevates the watch from a simple timepiece to a work of art. The dial's dual personality, traditional by day and radiant blue by night, is a testament to the craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Powering the 'Ultimus'
Under the hood, the 'Ultimus' is driven by a reliable Sellita SW200 base, enhanced with Christopher Ward's JJ01 jumping hour module. This movement, with its automatic winding and 38-hour power reserve, ensures precision and reliability. The customized automatic rotor, adorned with the 'Bristol Flower', adds a touch of individuality to the watch.
A Limited Legacy
The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour 'Ultimus' is available for a limited time only, from August 10th to 17th, 2026. Priced at £4,450 for the strap version and £4,750 for the bracelet, this watch is a collector's dream. With each piece numbered sequentially, it's a true testament to the legacy of the Brunswick Jump Hour. This collaboration with Andrew Morgan might just be the pinnacle of the model line, a fitting end to a successful chapter in Fears' history.
Final Thoughts
The 'Ultimus' is a perfect example of how collaboration can push the boundaries of watchmaking. It's a watch that tells a story, a story of innovation, tradition, and the unique partnership between Fears and Andrew Morgan. As an enthusiast, I can't help but feel a sense of excitement and nostalgia with this limited edition. It's a watch that will undoubtedly leave its mark on the industry and in the hearts of collectors.
